The Capo Noli traverse, a climbing route just a few meters above the sea
Il traverso delle Meraviglie
The places of Finale Ligure
Finale is a territory full of magical and special places for climbing enthusiasts, and most of all the cliffs most of Capo Noli hit all the right buttons for climbers because of its special position.
The cliff is located below the la via Aurelia, the A road that runs parallel to the Ligurian Riviera and the base of the carg emerges directly from the sea often vertically above the Mediterranean waves.
One might think that due to the proximity to the busy Aurelia road one is disturbed by traffic noise and the general confusion of the road above, but that is not the case. Once one has abseiled to the base of the cliff, “the world above” disappears and as if by magic the climbers are alone surrounded only by white rock and the blue sea.
Here the dream of many mountaineers and sport climbers comes true to combine rock ans sea in one adventure.
At Capo Noli you climb to have fun and to relax to forget about grades, the beauty of the setting makes every move pleasant, even the most simplest.
CLIMBING AT CAPO NOLI
The routes that lead upwards and the routes that are climbed in traverse.
One can climb in many different ways at Capo Noli.
We are is at your disposal to accompany you in the most congenial adventure.
Here are the different possibilities:
single pitch sport climbing
deep water soloing
climbing and sailing
IN SCIO’ BULESUMME
(Grillo, Oddone, Simonetti – 1979)
Probably Finale's most famous route: the traverse of the Noli cape.
Climbing on adventurous terrain 400 m long and a couple of meters above the sea.
Which mountaineer, after the hardship and rigours of serious mountaineering, would not appreciate a relaxing day of good climbing with a tepid sea breeze and the relaxing rhythm of barking waves instead of freezing cold wind, rock fall and avalanches?
The rock is generally full of holds and varied, and therefore also the climbing style is varied from section to section; smooth and slippery rock sections are not lacking but are rare. Less solid parts can be found higher above the sea.
The bolting is mixed: classic old and new bolts, pitons and resin bolts. The protection should be constantly checked due to the harsh environment in which they are located. Integrating the bolted routes with trad gear might be good idea especially in the horizontal and the downhill section to further protect whoever is seconding the route.
The route. One can climb the entire route or parts of the route because one can abseil or climb out at pretty much every belay chain.
The route is in places located up to 20m above sea level and descends in other places down to just a few meters above the waves.
The first half of the multipitch route contains the hardest routes. Normally the route is climbed from wets to east. One starts with a 15m abseil from a comfortable terrace in the In Scio’ Bulesumme sector.
This route can also be be climbed in the other direction, an interesting experience e because the route is notably different. Climbing in the other direction can however create problems when other climbers are encountered.
Difficulty: harder passages are concentrated in the western section of the route. The hardest part is 6a French grade but the moves are not desperate and quite predictable. The medium difficulty is 4 and 5.
The eastern section of the route is definitely easier (grade 4 or less) but always interesting and with protection spaced further apart.
Every climbing team can thus choose the most suitable route for their capabilities without loosing out on any of fascination that this place has to offer.
Climbing on cliffs right above the sea, where the sea is the dominating factor and the routes start right above the waves. An unforgettable adventure.
There are several walls. Their most common feature is the access from above which involves abseiling to the base of the crag to reach the start and caution when belaying to prevent the rope from ending up in the sea!
Here they are from west to east:
• Dancing Dalle: short hard routes
• Easy Dalle: short and very easy routes
• I Pilastri: partially correspond to the area which splits into Scio’ Bulesumme. Beautiful routes of medium to low difficulty.
• Nolitudine: versus the town Noli of the cape, the only sector with a a comfortable rocky platform which resembles normal climbing at a crag. The access is via an abseil and an equipped traverse.
Note: this is the only crag for which it is useful to consult the marine forecast. With rough seas climbing gets very adventurous and wet.